(Form Follows Function) (Form Follows Function)
Standardized pinch set, South African power records:
| Australia | South Africa | USA | add your country here! | International |
| Block name | Time held | Weight held | Person who done it | Notes, where,etc |
| Al | 4 seconds + | 37.5 lbs | Shawn Harris | March/11/99 South Africa, JHB |
| Bea | 4 seconds + | 40 lbs | Joffrey Hyman | April/5/99 see below for one finger pinches |
| Chris | 4 seconds + | 60.5 lbs | Shawn Harris | March/11/99 South Africa JHB |
| Dino | 4 seconds + | 45 lbs | Joffrey Hyman | April/5/99 Dedorns |
| Eileen | 4 seconds + | 47.6 lbs | Alard Hufner | October/17/99 yosemite |
| Francois/Frank | 4 seconds + | 50 lbs | Joffrey Hyman | March/06/99 Dedorns |
| Gino | 4 seconds + | 46 lbs | Joffrey Hyman | November/2nd/1999 Sandton South Africa JHB |
| Hans(2X4) | 4 seconds + | 51.7lbs | Joffrey Hyman | April 5th/99 JHB |
| Ivan | 4 seconds + | 30.1 lbs | Alard Hufner | October/17th/99 Yosemite |
| Jason/Joffrey | 4 seconds + | 37.1 lbs | Mike Mason | October/17th/99 Yosemite |
| Kev | 4 seconds + | ? lbs |
| See below for pinch ordering information. | For endurance pinch records click here:I |
As we update the site, the weight amount will go up. For a point of interest let us know how far past the 5 seconds you held it. (anyone getting the endurance and power record, with the same weight and pinch block, after the records have been up a while is RAD! ~ I'll send you a prize!)
Get a set for yourself or talk your gym into getting one. Great way to compare yourself with other climber's grip strength around the globe. To order a set of pinches, (whichever 7 I have in stock), send $40 to: Form Follows Function, 7254 Yosemite Parkway, Yosemite, CA 95389. ~ Includes all apparatus needed to use EXCEPT the weights and a carabiner.Add $12 for shipping outside USA. ~ Are they just blocks of wood? Yes, with arched sides! Can you make them yourself? maybe... see picture and instructions- here.
send updated records to me via email: .
As with all activities that push your physical limits, PLEASE, warm up thoroughly beforehand to avoid tendon or tissue explosion/damage.
Technique/"rules": blocks are to be pinched between your thumb pad and finger pads, (likely you'll just get two fingers on Bea), NOT your palm and fingers. Resin or sticky substance on pinches is AGAINST THE RULES. You must hold the block at a 90 degree angle from the pull of the weights down.- This means you must hold the block level. Holding the block even slightly cocked off level can increase your holding power tremendously. When trying for Bea single finger records: Index, BM, BR, and BP, do not assist with the adjacent fingers and do not hold finger perpendicular to the pull of the weights. If any serious "opposition" to your record surfaces. Record will be removed until video proof is received, or large petition on your behalf gathered by someone OTHER THAN YOU submitted to me.
Nicki the current "under one year old" pinch champion.
Back to Speedclimb:M'
| For the below it is VERY important to NOT use the adjacent fingers to support the pinch. It is also difficult to hold the ring and pinky in line with the pull of the block, holding your finger pad perpendicular to the pull of the weight is not allowed. |
| Block name | Time held | Weight held | Person who done it | Notes, where,etc |
| Bea Index | 4 seconds + | ? lbs | waiting for them to | get on with it...... |
| Bea Middle | 4 seconds + | ? lbs | ||
| Bea Ring | 4 seconds + | ? lbs | ||
| Bea Pinky | 4 seconds + | ? lbs |
So you think you've got good grip strength?! Check this out: Captain Crush