F cubed (Form Follows Function) updated:02/17/05 Standardized Pinch set, International endurance records:  

Block Name Time Held Weight Held, (fixed) Person Who Did it Notes, Where,etc
Al 43 seconds 24.2 lbs Shawn Harris Mar/27/99 - South Africa , Sandton
Bea 31 seconds 30.0 lbs Hans Florine Mar/21/99 - Yosemite (LH, middle, index, and thumb)
Chris 35 seconds 35.0 lbs Hans Florine  May/03/99 - Yosemite (L hand)
Dino 33 seconds 35.2 lbs Hans Florine May/02/99 - Yosemite (L hand)
Eileen 18 seconds 45 lbs Rich Fettke Febraury/16/2005 - Concord CA CA (L hand)
Francois/Frank 41 seconds 45 lbs Rich Fettke Febraury/16/2005 - Concord CA (R hand)
Gino 48 seconds 30.8 lbs Joffrey Hyman November/2nd/1999 Sandton South Africa JHB
Hans (2x4) 55 seconds 45.0 lbs Scott Bovard February/20th/2002 Berkeley, USA

  

See below for pinch ordering information.   For power pinch records click here:I

 As we update the site, the weight amount will go up. I want to keep the time held to over 20 seconds and under 50 seconds. So when someone breaks 60 seconds will add 5 lbs to the pinch.(until you have broken the 60 second mark with the current weight listed do not increase the weight). We'll start an "archive" for the lower weight records maybe.

Get a set for yourself or talk your gym into getting one. Great way to compare yourself with other climber's grip strength around the globe. To order a set of pinches, (whichever 7 I have in stock), send $200 to: Form Follows Function, 7254 Yosemite Parkway, Yosemite, CA 95389. ~ Includes all apparatus needed to use EXCEPT the weights and a carabiner. Add $12 for shipping outside USA. Are they just blocks of wood? Yes, with arched sides! Can you make them yourself? maybe... see picture and instructions- here.

send updated records to me via email: .

As with all activities that push your physical limits, PLEASE, warm up thoroughly beforehand to avoid tendon or tissue explosion/injury.

Technique/"rules": blocks are to be pinched between your thumb pad and finger pads, (likely you'll just get two fingers on Bea), NOT your palm and fingers. Resin or sticky substance on pinches is AGAINST THE RULES. You must hold the block at a 90 degree angle from the pull of the weights down.- This means you must hold the block level. Holding the block even slightly cocked off level can increase your holding power tremendously. When trying for Bea single finger records: Index, BM, BR, and BP, do not assist with the adjacent fingers and do not hold finger perpendicular to the pull of the weights. If any serious "opposition" to your record surfaces. Record will be removed until video proof is received, or large petition on your behalf gathered by someone OTHER THAN YOU submitted to me.

~ Nicki the current "under one year old" pinch champion.