First ascent of the NoseWarren Harding, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore, November 12th, 1958. It took 45 climbing days spread over 18 months to do the route. The final push took 12 days. On the last day, Warren drilled through all night to establish the final 28-hole bolt ladder to summit, making it to the top around dawn. First solo ascent:Tom Bauman in 1969. |
First one day ascent:Jim Bridwell, John Long, and Billy Westbay, 1975. See a brief account of the ascent from John Long First one-day solo ascentSteve Schneider, 1989 Fastest ascentTwo hours, 48 minutes, and 50 seconds by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine |
First free ascentLynn Hill, 1993 First one-day free ascentLynn Hill, 1994 |
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MORE STUFF:
First single push ascent: 1960, Tom Frost, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt, and Royal Robbins.- seven days. - It was the second ascent of the route.
The third ascent of the route took 3.5 days, Layton Kor, Steve Roper, and Glenn Denny.
First all female ascent of the Nose in 1977 by Molly Higgins and Barb Eastman.
First female solo ascent of the Nose, 2002 by Jacqueline Florine.
Youngest team: Bill Price 14 Kurt Reider 15, 1977.
2nd youngest Kevin Brown, 18, and Jeff Smith, 17, in 1977.
Youngest ascent by Scott Cory, 11 years old along with Tori Allen 13years old, AND others(older). September 2001.
First Womens one day ascent: 1992, Sue McDevitt and Nancy Feagin. 17 hours 40 minutes.
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The first Mexican women climbed the Nose in 1992 they were Angeles Mendoza and Irma Hernandez, (possibly the second all female ascent.), ~ In 1980 Ricardo Chavez and Eduardo Mosqueda were the first Mexican Males to ascend the Nose.
(Angeles shown to the left.)
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The first Italian males climbed the Nose in 1975, they were Giorgio Bertone and Renzino Cosson.
The first Spanish female party was Monica Serentil and Nuria in 1991. The first Spanish male party was Jeronimo Lopez and Jose Maria in 1978 .
First South African ascent of the Nose:1973 Roger Fuggle and partner. They did the second hammerless ascent.
First South African Woman: Michele Smith climbed the nose with Kevin Smith in 1984
First South African one Day Ascent 1996 Paul Every
The first all female Australian team ascent by : Vera Wong, Nik Woolford & Kate Dooley 1996.
Rick White and Doug Scott were the first Australians their ascent was in 1973.
The first Belgians to climb the Nose where Van Campenhout Dirk , Marc deBakker and one other ?? Year?
We think that Andrea Stimpson (with 'Rat' - Monserrat Seralys) was the first Brit woman to climb the Nose, 1990?
First British lads to scramble up the Nose: Mick Burke and Rob Wood, 1st-5th July 1968 (revenge for the 4th of July?)
First female one day ascent by Merry Braun in 1990, ( partner Werner Braun).
First Blind climber ascent: 1996, Erik Weyhnemayer et all ( Erik lead 5 pitches!)
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First under "eight hour day" ascent by David Shultz and Peter Croft, made national press. 6 hours 40 minutes! 1991
Fastest free ascent by Tommy Caldwell in under 11 hours, THEN he went and climbed Free Rider!
Highest number of ascents: Hans Florine, 60 times,(as of October 2005).
"The block" two pitches above camp six fell or was removed in early 1997.
By the spring of 1970 there were twenty one known ascents of the Nose route.
Starting altitude of the Nose route: 4150 ft
Ending altitude: 7050 ft
A man's dream to do it in a day and numerous stories of ascents on the route and volumous beta:
HERE!
| A view from just
outside the Great Roof pitch, looking up the pancake flake. |
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a list of folks who have done the NIAD, (Nose In A Day)
If you can fill in any missing information below
please email
me, thanks.
1963 - third ascent took 3.5 days.(
1967 - 3 day ascent by party of two..(Jim Madsen and Kim
Schmitz)
1968 - 2.5 day ascent.(Jim Madsen and Mike Covington)
1974 - 1.5 day ascent.(Ray Jardine and partner(s)?)
1975 - the FIRST one day ascent was made, took about 17 hours
and 40 minutes.(Billy Westbay, Jim Bridwell, and John Long)
1979~ - the route was done in under 13 hours.(Thierry '
Turbo' Renault + other)
1984 - the route was done in under 11 hours.(Dave Shultz, and
John Middendorf, also Duncan Critchley and Romain Vogler)
1986 - the route was done in 9:17. (John Bachar and Peter
Croft, they then went and climbed the NWRR on Half Dome)
1988 - first NIAD Beta/description written by John Middendorf.
1989 - first one day solo ascent was made.( Steve
Schneider )
1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40,(Steve Schneider and
Hans Florine, then Dave Shultz and Peter Croft,- respectively)
1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48,(Andres Puhvel and
Hans, then Dave and Peter, - respectively)
1992 - 4:22 became the record.,(Peter and Hans)
2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then
3:24:20,(Timmy Oneil and Dean Potter, then Jim Herson and Hans, then
Timmy and Dean again.)
2002 - 2:48:50 became the record,(Yuji Hirayama and Hans)
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It took me some
work to
research all this. PLEASE ask my permission before infringing on
copyright
laws and my hard work.
For speed ascent
reporting of OTHER
Yosemite routes see:
Yosemite
John Long recounts the first NIAD: ".....Actually we got to the top in just under fifteen hours, but we could have done it much faster had we been worried about an hour count. We were very concerned about being able to do it in a day, so we speed climbed the first bit and got to the top of the Boot at 8:15. That´s when we realized we could easily bag the Nose in a day and we stopped speed climbing and just cruised at a comfortable pace. Had we kept the pressure on to go fast we could have knocked off four or five hours but that wasn´t the goal. We just wanted to bag it in a day. We got to the top with plenty of daylight left and it didn´t get dark till we had made the descent and were walking back to our car. It really was quite easy considering our fitness, and I was amazed no one had done it before. But back then, 28 years ago, it was a psychological barrier. That was the same year as Astroman, and after those two climbs, the flood gate was open and most anything was considered possible.â€
JL
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