Notables
and trivia
about The Nose Route
of El
Capitan, Yosemite National Park
| First
ascent:
Warren Harding, Wayne Mary, and
George Whitmore.
November 12th, 1958.
It took 45 days work on the route
over 18 months to do the route.
The final push took 11 days. Warren
purportedly drilled the final, 28 hole,
bolt ladder all night to summit on the
last pitch at dawn.
|
First one day ascent:
Jim Bridwell, John Long,
and Billy Westbay.
1975.
Brief story.
Fastest ascent:
two hours, 48 minutes,
and 50 seconds. -Yuji
Hirayama and Hans Florine
|
 |
First solo ascent:
Tom Bauman in
1969.
First one day
solo ascent:
Steve Schneider
1989
|
First free
ascent:
Lynn Hill.
1993
Lynn then came
back the following
year and free
climbed the route
- in a day!
|
MORE
STUFF:
First single push ascent: 1960, Tom Frost, Joe
Fitschen, Chuck
Pratt, and Royal Robbins.- seven days. - It was the second ascent of
the route.
The third ascent of the route took 3.5 days, Layton
Kor, Steve Roper, and
Glenn Denny.
First all female ascent of the Nose in 1977 by
Molly Higgins
and Barb Eastman.
First
female solo ascent of
the Nose, 2002 by Jacqueline Florine.
Youngest team: Bill Price 14 Kurt Reider 15, 1977.
2nd youngest Kevin Brown, 18, and Jeff Smith, 17, in 1977.
Youngest ascent by Scott Cory, 11 years old along
with Tori Allen 13years
old, AND others(older). September 2001.
First Womens one day ascent: 1992, Sue McDevitt and
Nancy
Feagin. 17 hours 40 minutes.
 |
The first Mexican
women climbed the Nose in 1992 they were Angeles Mendoza and Irma
Hernandez, (possibly the second all female ascent.), ~ In 1980 Ricardo
Chavez and Eduardo Mosqueda were the first
Mexican Males to ascend the Nose.
(Angeles shown to the left.)
|
The first Italian males climbed the Nose in 1975,
they were Giorgio Bertone
and Renzino Cosson.
The
first Spanish female party
was Monica Serentil and Nuria in 1991. The first Spanish
male party was Jeronimo Lopez and Jose Maria in 1978 .
First South African ascent of the Nose:1973 Roger
Fuggle and
partner. They did the second hammerless ascent.
First South African Woman: Michele Smith climbed
the nose with
Kevin Smith in 1984
First South African one Day Ascent 1996 Paul Every
The first all female Australian team ascent by :
Vera Wong,
Nik Woolford & Kate Dooley 1996.
Rick White and Doug Scott were the first
Australians their
ascent was in 1973.
The first Belgians to climb the Nose where Van
Campenhout Dirk
, Marc deBakker and one other ?? Year?
We think that Andrea Stimpson (with 'Rat' -
Monserrat Seralys)
was the first Brit woman to climb the Nose, 1990?
First British lads to scramble up the Nose: Mick
Burke and Rob
Wood, 1st-5th July 1968 (revenge for the 4th of July?)
First female one day ascent by Merry Braun in 1990,
( partner
Werner Braun).
First Blind climber ascent: 1996, Erik Weyhnemayer
et all (
Erik lead 5 pitches!)
 |
First
ascent by a nineteen-year-old from
Issaquah, WA, was in
September 1980!
(Mark Kroese)
|
First under "eight hour day" ascent by David Shultz
and Peter Croft, made national press. 6 hours 40 minutes! 1991
Fastest free ascent by Tommy Caldwell in under 11
hours, THEN
he went and climbed Free Rider!
Highest number of ascents: Hans Florine, 60
times,(as of October 2005).
"The block" two pitches above camp six fell or was
removed in early 1997.
By the spring of 1970 there were twenty one known
ascents of
the Nose route.
Starting altitude of the Nose route: 4150 ft
Ending altitude: 7050 ft
A man's dream to do it in a day and numerous
stories of
ascents on the route and volumous beta:
HERE!
| A view from just
outside the Great
Roof pitch, looking
up the pancake flake.
|
 |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
a list of folks who have done the NIAD, (Nose In A Day)
If you can fill in any missing information below
please email
me, thanks.
1958 - first
ascent took 12 days on the final
push. (48 days of work over 18 months)(Wayne, George, and
Warren)
1960 - second ascent took 7 days,(6 nights)(Joe Fitchsen, Tom
Frost, Chuck Pratt, and Royal Robbins)
1963 - third ascent took 3.5 days.(
1967 - 3 day ascent by party of two..(Jim Madsen and Kim
Schmitz)
1968 - 2.5 day ascent.(Jim Madsen and Mike Covington)
1974 - 1.5 day ascent.(Ray Jardine and partner(s)?)
1975 - the FIRST one day ascent was made, took about 17 hours
and 40 minutes.(Billy Westbay, Jim Bridwell, and John Long)
1979~ - the route was done in under 13 hours.(Thierry '
Turbo' Renault + other)
1984 - the route was done in under 11 hours.(Dave Shultz, and
John Middendorf, also Duncan Critchley and Romain Vogler)
1986 - the route was done in 9:17. (John Bachar and Peter
Croft, they then went and climbed the NWRR on Half Dome)
1988 - first NIAD Beta/description written by John Middendorf.
1989 - first one day solo ascent was made.( Steve
Schneider )
1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40,(Steve Schneider and
Hans Florine, then Dave Shultz and Peter Croft,- respectively)
1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48,(Andres Puhvel and
Hans, then Dave and Peter, - respectively)
1992 - 4:22 became the record.,(Peter and Hans)
2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then
3:24:20,(Timmy Oneil and Dean Potter, then Jim Herson and Hans, then
Timmy and Dean again.)
2002 - 2:48:50 became the record,(Yuji Hirayama and Hans)
2007 - 2:48:35 became the record, then 2:45:45, (Alexander and Thomas Huber set and broke their own record)
It took me some
work to
research all this. PLEASE ask my permission before infringing on
copyright
laws and my hard work.
For speed ascent
reporting of OTHER
Yosemite routes see:
Yosemite
John
Long recounts the first NIAD:
".....Actually we got to the top in just under fifteen hours, but we
could have done it much faster had we been worried about an hour
count. We were very concerned about being able to do it in a
day, so we speed climbed the first bit and got to the top of the Boot
at 8:15. That´s when we realized we could easily
bag the Nose in a day and we stopped speed climbing and just cruised at
a comfortable pace. Had we kept the pressure on to go fast we could
have knocked off four or five hours but that wasn´t the
goal. We just wanted to bag it in a day. We got to
the top with plenty of daylight left and it didn´t get dark
till we had made the descent and were walking back to our
car. It really was quite easy considering our fitness, and I
was amazed no one had done it before. But back then, 28 years
ago, it was a psychological barrier. That was the same year as
Astroman, and after those two climbs, the flood gate was open and most
anything was considered
possible."
JL
How does
The Nose compare with other routes? click here to see! and
put in your opinion.
